Qipao (cheongsam)

Qipao vs cheongsam and where it comes from

Qipao means banner gown, a reference to the Manchu banner people of the Qing dynasty, whose long robes influenced the design. In 1920s Shanghai the robe was reshaped into a modern dress, and over the next decades it became closer-fitting, with higher slits and shorter sleeves following fashion.

Cheongsam, from the Cantonese for long garment, spread through Hong Kong and is the more common English word. Both names describe the same dress, and in Chinese the word changshan can also mean a long robe for men.

Parts and variations

• Mandarin collar: a short standing collar that wraps the neck, closing at the front.
• Frog buttons (pankou): knotted cord fastenings, from simple knots to flower shapes.
• Opening: usually a curved line from the collar to under the right arm, then down the side.
• Slits: at one or both sides of the skirt, from a short vent to knee height.
• Sleeves: sleeveless, cap sleeves, short, elbow-length or long.
• Length: knee, calf or ankle; long versions feel formal, short ones modern.
• Fabric: silk brocade, satin, velvet, lace or printed cotton; piping often outlines the edges.

How to draw a qipao

The qipao follows the body closely, so the figure drawing underneath must be solid. There are few folds: small tension creases at the waist and where the arms join, and the fabric pulls toward the bent knee when walking. The side slit opens as the leg steps forward.

Draw the collar as a short cylinder around the neck, with its top edge curving slightly. Then run the opening line from the collar diagonally to the right underarm and place the frog buttons along it. Piping in a contrasting colour along the collar, opening and hem makes the design readable even in small drawings. Embroidered flowers often wrap around from the front to the back.

Wearing and photographing a qipao

Fit is everything: the qipao should follow the body without pulling at the buttons. Pair it with low heels, a neat bun or soft waves and small jewellery, and stand tall, because the collar shows any slouch.

Elegant poses work best: one foot in front of the other, a hand resting on the collar, holding a folding fan or paper umbrella, or seated sideways with ankles crossed. Old streets, tea houses, round doorways and warm interiors suit the style; soft side light brings out the sheen of satin and brocade.